Corniglia

So, to steal a line from my friend and fellow blogger Lauren, I am declaring myself "back from sabbatical," because that sounds considerably better than "I've been too busy this December to blog."  Sadly I somehow managed to completely forget to take pictures of all the food I've made over the past few weeks, including homemade tomato-bacon bisque soup, a Christmas trifle, and dozens upon dozens of cookies.  As a result, we're picking up with the travel photos.

These photos are all from Corniglia, the middle town of the Cinque Terre, and the only one without even a tiny beach -- Corniglia is truly perched on the face of a cliff, with a sheer drop to the sea below.  It's tiny and quiet, even in comparison to the other tiny, quiet Cinque Terre towns -- and just as lovely.  The hike down to Corniglia from Vernazza was not too arduous.  Unfortunately, rock slides have closed the normal walking path between Corniglia and the next town, Manarola, so your only options are to take the (looong) inland path or the train between them.  Suffice to say, we considered both but opted for the train.

A glimpse of Corniglia as you approach on the trail from Vernazza.

Vineyards and terraces surrounding Corniglia.

Inside the town.

Stairs -- 360+ stairs, to be exact -- leading from the village of Corniglia to the train station, from which we went to Manarola.  We were very glad to be going down.

Oreo Truffles

One of the easiest and yet most delicious desserts in my arsenal are these Oreo truffles, which definitely came in handy last night when it was very late and I had yet to start making something for today's holiday potluck at work.  I've made these before with regular Oreos, and used Trader Joe's candy cane Joe-Jos this time to be extra festive (and because that's what I had).

Instructions as follows: crush a box of Oreos (with a food processor if you have one; mine is currently on loan and fortunately I found a combination of a rolling pin and a hammer works great, too).  Mix in a brick of room temperature cream cheese.  Roll into balls; dip the balls into melted semisweet chocolate.  Set to dry on parchment paper and sprinkle if desired.  Cool in the fridge to set.

In a hurry, I took these pictures with my iPhone, so they're not mind-blowing but you get the idea.  Warning: they are very dense and sweet, so just a small bite and you might be running for milk, but you'll be back for another bite right away! 

Monterosso al Mare

These pictures also were taken in Cinque Terre, specifically on the hike from Vernazza to the northernmost town, Monterosso al Mare.  The walk going this direction is quite pleasant, not least because of the amazing views, but also because you enjoy a long downward slope right before the town.  In contrast, the people coming the other direction (towards Vernazza) looked exhausted just a short distance into their trip; we didn't have the heart to explain just how much farther they had to go.

On a side note, Monterosso and Vernazza were both devastated by terrible storms and resulting mudslides this fall, shortly after we left.  I sincerely hope they're able to clean and rebuild, and welcome tourists again, since--for better or for worse--tourism now seems to be the lifeblood of these towns.  If you are ever able to go, I think it's well worth the time to visit and stay awhile.  And, if you ever have an opportunity to eat dinner in Monterosso, look for Ristorante Via Venti and try the fish ravioli.  My tastebuds are still dreaming of it, three months after the fact.

Looking back on Vernazza from the path to Monterosso.

You can just see the shore and buildings of Monterosso in the distance--tantalizing, and it seems close, but there's still a long way to walk.

Now you're almost there.

Monterosso is the only "flat" town among the Cinque Terre, and hence the only one with a true beach--a lovely one, at that.

Homes, restaurants, and shops stretch back from the shore into the town.

Hot Chocolate 15K

Also this past weekend, DC hosted its first Hot Chocolate 15K, an event that has been put on by RAM Racing in Chicago for several years, and they're trying to expand.  It felt wonderful to be out running--this was the longest race I've ever done!--but I have to agree with the consensus that the race was terribly organized.  An inadequate venue, traffic issues, poor communication on race day, a course that had us running the first five miles right along a highway--you name it.  The race was held at National Harbor, which I think was where the organizers went so wrong.

Fortunately, we had a great day regardless.  There was chocolate fondue and hot chocolate waiting for us at the end--that part was actually very well organized, suggesting to me that the race organizers simply have their priorities set on food.  And, really, why argue with that?

I feel a bit like I'm cheating by posting this photo, since I obviously didn't take it, nor was it even taken with my camera.  That said, it's such a fun shot of my friends Evan, Maureen, and I that I figure it ought be shared.  :)

Eastern Market

This past weekend I got a bit of Christmas shopping -- and a lot of window-shopping -- done at Eastern Market, which is one of those places that just makes me love Washington, DC.  My favorite aspect of Eastern Market is actually the open air vendors and stalls, plus the flea market across the way.  I could while away hours there, browsing random jewelry, vintage ads, photos, and housewares.  The Christmas trees and wreaths for sale in early December only add to the festive spirit.

If you have to differentiate yourself from the other vegetable vendors somehow, why not a giant rainbow umbrella?

A brisk morning didn't keep the crowds away.

Vernazza

As luck would have it, after wrapping up the language course in Nice, I was able to take a week of "real" vacation, and spent it in Italy -- pretty much my favorite country in the world, at least if you are there purely to eat and explore.  I had previously flown through most of Italy's major cities during a college backpacking trip, so this time was grateful to take a more relaxed approach and focus on seeing the Cinque Terre -- five beautiful, tiny towns terraced into the earth by the coast of the Ligurian Sea.

We used Vernazza as a home base, which we felt was a great decision.  All the towns have outrageous charm and beauty, but I'd argue Vernazza is the most picturesque, and it cleared out for quiet, lovely evenings despite the hordes of day-trippers that poured in each morning by train.  Eating dinner down by the harbor each night was a delight -- no doubt helped by amazing company ... and the ability to split a bottle of wine without a care in the world about driving home or waking up at any appointed hour the next day!

This was the view from the window of our room, with the morning sky.  I have to pinch myself to remember it was real.

The entire town, stretching out towards the sea.  Vernazza is the only town among the five to have a natural, protected harbor, which you can see on the right.

Looking back on the town and the terraced hill sides behind it.

From the top of Vernazza's castle, looking south along the sea.

Maple Bourbon Pecan Pie

In the past I've hewed closely to the pumpkin pie tradition at Thanksgiving, but this year embraced change and baked my first-ever pecan pie.  I can't deny that finding a recipe which calls for a splash of bourbon made me that much more excited to give it a spin.  And, from Cooking Light, no less!

Getting started.

Just a tablespoon for flavor, I swear.  There may or may not have been a whisky taste test later in the day.

Finished result -- not half bad for a first try!

Maple Bourbon Pecan Pie

Originally found in Cooking Light's Thanksgiving 2011 issue; also available online here. 

1 refrigerated pie dough, rolled out to fit a 9" pan

cooking spray

3/4 cup pecan halves

1/4 cup finely chopped pecans

1/2 cup maple syrup

1/2 cup dark corn syrup 

3 tablespoons brown sugar

2 tablespoons butter, melted

2 tablespoons bourbon

1 teaspoon vanilla extract

1/4 teaspoon salt

2 large eggs, lightly beaten

2 large egg whites, lightly beaten

Preheat oven to 350 degrees.  Fit dough into 9" pie plate coated with cooking spray, draping excess dough over the edges.  Fold the edges under and flute, or cross-hatch with a fork.  Chill in the freezer while you prepare the filling, about 15 minutes.

Combine pecans and all remaining ingredients in a medium bowl, stirring well to combine.  Pour into prepared crust and bake for about 40 minutes at 350 degrees or until the center of the pie is nearly set.  Cool on wire rack and inhale! 

Cooking light recommends serving with vanilla ice cream, which I imagine would be amazing, but we used good old fashioned homemade whipped cream, which went with the sugary-sweet pecan goodness perfectly!

Monaco

The city-state of Monaco, technically an independent principality surrounded entirely by French territory, makes another lovely day trip from Nice.  It's the most densely-populated country in the world, the richest, at least as measured by per capita GDP, and also has the lowest unemployment rate -- a functional 0%, with thousands commuting in from France every day for work.  Monaco is so much more dense and developed than the other cities along the Riviera, it's worth seeing if only for the comparison.

Monaco is probably most famous for being the home of Monte Carlo, which is actually a neighborhood within the city -- a neighborhood that basically consists of the world's most well-known casino, plus shops and hotels catering to the casino's unfathomably wealthy clients.

Looking through the fountains and parks towards the Casino Monte Carlo.

I suspect only tourists ever "use" this entrance; the place is mobbed with people with cameras, and I can't imagine those about to gamble thousands (millions?) of dollars really want to navigate that.

The flag of Monaco.

Amazing sailboats in Monaco's famous port.

Looking out over the port with the main part of the city in the background.

Even the train station is modern, clean, and sleek.

Villefranche-sur-Mer

Just a few kilometers along the coast from Nice is the small, gorgeous town of Villefranche-sur-Mer.  Villefranche is tiny compared to Nice, but boasts one of the country's most well-known French-as-a-foreign-language schools (Institut de Francais) and -- unusual for the Riviera -- a beach you can lie on comfortably.  Most of the Riviera is blessed with gorgeous but somewhat uncomfortable, rock-covered beaches -- this partly explains the popularity of private beaches in Nice, where you can rent a lounge chair and avoid the trouble of arranging the huge rocks into a semi-flat surface.  In Villefrance, the beach is still rocks, but tiny pebbles rather than stones the size of your hand, so it's almost like lying on sand.  Definitely close enough to enjoy the day!

Exploring the town.

Loved these colors together.

Spend an afternoon reading by the water?  Don't mind if I do!

Oatmeal Chocolate Chip Cookies

You really can't go wrong with oatmeal chocolate chip cookies -- a widely-loved variation on a classic favorite. And, since they include oatmeal, I convince myself they might be kinda sorta healthy!  I love this recipe: the cinnamon and cloves are completely optional and very subtle, but just add a little extra dimension to the finished flavor. Ironically I made a huge batch of these almost immediately after resolving to lose a few pounds before a 15K I am running in early December -- less weight to carry all those miles! Not exactly a swimming start, but oh well, it was worth it for the chewy, chocolatey goodness. Scroll down for the recipe.

All boxed up and ready to take to work. 

(I have enough shame willpower to not eat ALL of them myself!)

Oatmeal Chocolate Chip Cookies

• 1 cup butter, softened
• 1 cup white sugar
• 1 cup packed brown sugar (I use dark, but light would work just fine)
• 2 eggs
• 1 teaspoon vanilla extract
• 2 cups flour
• 1 teaspoon cinnamon (optional)
• 1/4 teaspoon cloves (optional)
• 1 teaspoon baking soda
• 1/2 teaspoon baking powder
• 1/2 teaspoon salt
• 2 cups old-fashioned oats
• 2 cups (1 bag) semisweet chocolate chips
• 
  
• Preheat the oven to 350 degrees. 
  • • In a large mixing bowl -- a stand mixer is great if you have one -- cream the butter, white sugar, and brown sugar. Beat in the eggs and vanilla extract.
• 
  
• In a separate medium-sized bowl, combine the flour, cinnamon and cloves (if using), baking soda, baking powder, and salt.  Add the combined dry ingredients a little at a time to the creamed butter and sugar mixture.  Next, stir in the oats and chocolate chips.
• 
  
• Drop rounded spoonfuls a few inches apart on regular ungreased baking sheets, and bake for 10-12 minutes.  Cool 'em on wire racks -- if you can wait that long!

Colline du Chateau

If you ever find yourself with an afternoon to kill in Nice, one of the countless lovely ways to do it is to take a short, steep walk up the "Colline du Chateau."  Once upon a time there was a real castle here, but that has been gone since the early 1700s, and now the area has been transformed into a lovely park with a few ruins and spectacular views overlooking Nice's Baie des Anges.  The castle ruins are on a rocky outcrop wedged right in between Nice's port and the old city ("Vieille Ville"), making this this perfect outing to combine with a stroll through either neighborhood -- plus a gelato, of course!

Panoramic view of Nice, looking inland with hills in the distance.

Overlooking Vieille Ville, the Promenade des Anglais, and the Baie des Anges from the top of the hill.

The winding streets of Vieille Ville.

Autumn Joy

No doubt about it, fall is my favorite season.  It probably dates back to when I loved going back to school (yes, I was that girl who looked forward to going back to school), but who doesn't love fall colors, breaking out the sweaters, being cozy on the first chilly nights, the start of football season, big bowls of chili... you get the idea.

Far away...

...close up.

Perfect for eating breakfast by the fire or roasting s'mores!

Le Jardin Exotique

As promised, this is an entire post dedicated to "le Jardin Exotique," which is set at the highest point of Eze Village.  If you ever are lucky enough to go to Eze, absolutely do not balk at the 5 euro entrance fee for this garden.  I read a review in advance claiming it was the best 5 euros you could spend on the French Riviera, and I'm inclined to agree.  I went a little photo-crazy there, because I found the statues very compelling, with the graceful lines set against the lush, steep hillside.

I love that she has her hands in her pockets, as if waiting indifferently for something or someone interesting to come along.

I find the blurred eyes fascinating, especially paired with the knowing smile.

The way the garden is arrayed, it's difficult to view this statue's face, which I imagine is deliberate: who knows what she might be thinking of?

I'm having fun with short depth-of-field again. 

I can't deny it: I desperately want these deck chairs.  Of course, it might be helpful to have a deck to put them on first.

This little guy is tucked away off a little pathway through the garden. 

Fun with angles and perspective this time.

Beautiful Eze

The French Riviera is dotted with small, charming towns tailor-made for day-trips from a home base in Nice or one of the larger cities.  Most of these towns are right along the coast, situated to take immediate advantage of the sparkling water and beach space, but the town of Eze is a truly fabulous exception.  There is the tiny Eze-sur-Mer along the beach, but this really is just a few streets and the train station.  The real site to behold is Eze Village, which is carved a looong climb (or a short bus ride) up in the hillside.  The village is completely inaccessible by car, and very recognizable by the lovely red-brick pathways with tiny shops and cafes literally carved into the side of the hills on either side.  Even though I was there on a cloudy day, I think it's safe to say it's one of the most picturesque places I have ever seen.

Looking down from the very early part of the Nietzsche Path, which winds up (and up, and up..) from Eze-sur-Mer to Eze Village.

My poor navigation skills meant that I missed the entrance to the path not once, but twice, and consequently was exhausted before even starting.  Fortunately iPhone GPS got me back on track, and the views were well worth it just a little ways into the hike.

Glancing back down a village street.

Rooftops in the village all have this deep reddish-orange tile.  This is an iconic Eze view, taken from the window of Le Nid d'Aigle -- a great restaurant where I was only too happy to devour a huge bowl of pasta after hauling my sorry self up from the shore.

You certainly can see how cloudy it was, but in some ways that just makes it that much more beautiful. This view is from Le Jardin Exotique, perched all the way at the top of town.  In the very bottom right corner, you can see the winding Moyen Corniche, a road connecting all the French Riviera towns which apparently was quite an engineering when first completed.  Legend has it the car accident that killed Princess Grace Kelly occurred along this road.  The garden here is decorated with a series of hauntingly beautiful statues -- I took so many photos of them that they merit a separate post all to themselves!