Oman Part 3 - Sultan Qaboos Grand Mosque

I am happy to be back to blogging after entirely too long a break.  I have a lot of pictures to catch up on from various travels and events!

As I go through pictures and reflect on what I'm learning, I've also realized I let myself become much too reliant on my camera's automatic functions.  In some ways, I think it's a testament to the quality of my entry-level DSLR that even on fully automatic settings, it takes some very pretty pictures and lets the novice photographer focus on things like framing and composition before tackling manual adjustments to shutter speed, aperture, and the like.  At the same time, one of the reasons I invested in a DSLR in the first place was to learn more about and have more control over these exact qualities, so I'm determined to work more at understanding and making full use of the camera's manual capabilities.

This set of pictures highlights the Sultan Qaboos Grand Mosque in Muscat, which is the third largest mosque in the world, and truly impressive.  The powers-that-be clearly recognize the site's potential as a tourist attraction and have left it open to visitors most mornings until 11:00 am, as long as you are appropriately dressed -- long sleeves, pants or a long skirt, and head coverings for the ladies.

[A view in the gardens surrounding the mosque complex.]

[Outside the main mosque are a series of beautiful plazas, hallways, and ablution chambers, where worshippers can wash their feet.  These areas were filled with small, beautiful details, including these intricate wooden ceilings.]

[A hallway outside the main mosque.]

[Gleaming marble plaza as you approach one side of the mosque.]

[Deep sea blue colored stained glass windows decorate the side of the main mosque, and on a sunny cloudless day mimic the sky exactly.]

[An archway marking part of the main entrance, where visitors are asked to remove their shoes before walking inside.]

[The inside of the great dome, with a massive chandelier hanging inside.  I wish I could go back as a more skilled photographer and find a way to capture the scale here - it was incredible.]

[One small section of the mosque floor, which boasts the largest contiguous Persian rug in the world.]

The mosque, needless to say, was breathtaking.  I think I took nearly 100 photos there in all, just snapping away at every interesting corner.  In addition to the photos here of the mosque and grounds themselves, I also took quite a few photos of the beautiful tiles that line the hallways and plazas surrounding the main worship site.  I plan hope to find the time to frame a series of the tile photos, since they are such a fun memory of the trip.  If I ever get to that and can find enough interesting ones, I may do a separate post just of the tiles.  :)

Oman, Part 2

This set of photos is from the Muttrah Souk, one of if not the largest markets in Muscat.  One of the things I love about souks is the mingling of tourist storefronts with shops where locals actually purchase  staples, and Muttrah did not disappoint.  Most of these photos are of the tourist-oriented sections, since that is where it was most appropriate to request permission for and take photographs -- definitely a consideration in the Middle East -- but other portions of the souk included gorgeous alleyways filled with fabric, butchershops, barbershops, etc.

These are actually jambiyas, a type of sword typically found in Yemen, although the same shop also sold khanjars, the Omani version, which is similar except the curve of the blade is closer to a 90 degree angle, rather than curving back up.

Oman, Part 1

Earlier this month I took a very short trip to Muscat, the capital of Oman. Muscat is a beautiful city, tucked between a row of low-lying mountains and the Gulf of Oman at the southeastern tip of the Arabian Peninsula. Oman has worked hard to develop industry and infrastructure since the current sultan came to power in 1970, and it shows. Muscat is very safe, sunny, and clean. It's also filled with luxury hotels, has many good restaurants, lots of shopping and creature comforts -- and the people seem genuinely happy. No mean feat.

Despite being there for less than a week, I managed to squeeze in several picture-taking opportunities. This set was taken at sunset along the beach just outside the Grand Hyatt, an opulent hotel near the diplomatic quarter.

Children playing soccer along the beach, with the corniche and main business districts in the distance.

Looking towards the soon-to-set sun.

You can almost feel the last rays of sun warming this gigantic rock offshore.

Children playing ball in the last light of day.

Ciao, Cinque Terre

By this time, anyone still reading is probably tired of posts with photos of Cinque Terre, but I just love some of these images from the last day and evening in Vernazza so much that I couldn't resist one last collection.

Striped pastel buildings on the main square in Vernazza.

Sunset as seen from Ristorante al Castello, perched above the harbor.

The town square just after nightfall.

Boats neatly docked in the harbor.

Cinque Terre by Water

After a rewarding but long day of hiking south from Vernazza to Riomaggiore, it was a beautiful feeling to step on the ferry and sense the cool breeze over the water.  Taking the ferry back to Vernazza just before sunset was a fantastic choice, not least because it gave us a chance to see four of the five towns from the water.

Riomaggiore from the water.

Manarola might be favorite from the sea ...

... even from this angle, Manarola shines.

Here you can see the rock slides that shut down the walking path between Corniglia and Manarola.

Corniglia, without a port, can only be seen from a distance.

Back in the harbor at Vernazza.

Via dell'Amore

I confess I've procrastinated a bit posting the last batches of Italy photos, in part I think subconsciously because I didn't have any further travel planned and was trying to stretch out the fun.  In the past week, though, I've made arrangements for two trips in February, so it's time to go through the rest of the Italy memories.

These pictures are of the Via dell'Amore, the easiest walk of the Cinque Terre, which stretches between Manarola and the southernmost town, Riomaggiore.  Via dell'Amore--roughly translated as "walk of love" is basically a flat, paved path between the towns.  In some sections, chain link fences along the side have been decorated with padlocks, ribbons, twist-ties, and even some unmentionables, all by couples wishing to leave a sign of their love.

Bicycle Lights

This well-lit bicycle, set out to attract attention to an otherwise nondescript Greek restaurant in New York, captures one of my favorite experiences that you seem to enjoy more in large cities---random, interesting objects set in the middle of "normal" streets.

Georgetown vs. St. John's

Three-day weekends are meant for fun adventures, so I was very happy to spend part of Martin Luther King weekend in New York, NY watching the Georgetown-St. John's basketball game at Madison Square Garden with a big group of loyal Hoyas.  The mini-reunion atmosphere was only made better by the fact that the Hoyas pulled ahead in the second half, going on to win decisively, with a final score of 69-49.  Considering I spent an excessive amount of time the previous week complaining about my teams' collective failure to perform, I was grateful to have my mini-losing streak broken.  

Inside the Garden.

Manarola

I would argue that the Cinque Terre town of Manarola, sandwiched between Corniglia and Riomaggiore, is the second most picturesque -- I'm partial to Vernazza, but looking back at these photos of Manarola I'm kind of awestruck by this town all over again.  It had charm, beautiful views, a fun walking path through the vineyards just inland, and excellent gelato.  All the staples.

Manarola enjoys this itsy-bitsy harbor, into which boats must be lowered by rope from the street above.

Nearly finished lowering the boat..

The street above the harbor, where the boats are stored, with the town of Manarola stretching up in the background.

Manarola, meet the ocean.  Ocean, meet Manarola.

Gorgeous, small-scale vineyards stretch away from the town into the hillside.  From most of the other Cinque Terre towns, a visit to the vineyards would require a serious hike or a car ride, but from Manarola you can easily walk through the nearest ones and be rewarded with an entirely different perspective on the town.

A view of the town church and adjacent apartments from the vineyards.

Corniglia

So, to steal a line from my friend and fellow blogger Lauren, I am declaring myself "back from sabbatical," because that sounds considerably better than "I've been too busy this December to blog."  Sadly I somehow managed to completely forget to take pictures of all the food I've made over the past few weeks, including homemade tomato-bacon bisque soup, a Christmas trifle, and dozens upon dozens of cookies.  As a result, we're picking up with the travel photos.

These photos are all from Corniglia, the middle town of the Cinque Terre, and the only one without even a tiny beach -- Corniglia is truly perched on the face of a cliff, with a sheer drop to the sea below.  It's tiny and quiet, even in comparison to the other tiny, quiet Cinque Terre towns -- and just as lovely.  The hike down to Corniglia from Vernazza was not too arduous.  Unfortunately, rock slides have closed the normal walking path between Corniglia and the next town, Manarola, so your only options are to take the (looong) inland path or the train between them.  Suffice to say, we considered both but opted for the train.

A glimpse of Corniglia as you approach on the trail from Vernazza.

Vineyards and terraces surrounding Corniglia.

Inside the town.

Stairs -- 360+ stairs, to be exact -- leading from the village of Corniglia to the train station, from which we went to Manarola.  We were very glad to be going down.

Monterosso al Mare

These pictures also were taken in Cinque Terre, specifically on the hike from Vernazza to the northernmost town, Monterosso al Mare.  The walk going this direction is quite pleasant, not least because of the amazing views, but also because you enjoy a long downward slope right before the town.  In contrast, the people coming the other direction (towards Vernazza) looked exhausted just a short distance into their trip; we didn't have the heart to explain just how much farther they had to go.

On a side note, Monterosso and Vernazza were both devastated by terrible storms and resulting mudslides this fall, shortly after we left.  I sincerely hope they're able to clean and rebuild, and welcome tourists again, since--for better or for worse--tourism now seems to be the lifeblood of these towns.  If you are ever able to go, I think it's well worth the time to visit and stay awhile.  And, if you ever have an opportunity to eat dinner in Monterosso, look for Ristorante Via Venti and try the fish ravioli.  My tastebuds are still dreaming of it, three months after the fact.

Looking back on Vernazza from the path to Monterosso.

You can just see the shore and buildings of Monterosso in the distance--tantalizing, and it seems close, but there's still a long way to walk.

Now you're almost there.

Monterosso is the only "flat" town among the Cinque Terre, and hence the only one with a true beach--a lovely one, at that.

Homes, restaurants, and shops stretch back from the shore into the town.

Vernazza

As luck would have it, after wrapping up the language course in Nice, I was able to take a week of "real" vacation, and spent it in Italy -- pretty much my favorite country in the world, at least if you are there purely to eat and explore.  I had previously flown through most of Italy's major cities during a college backpacking trip, so this time was grateful to take a more relaxed approach and focus on seeing the Cinque Terre -- five beautiful, tiny towns terraced into the earth by the coast of the Ligurian Sea.

We used Vernazza as a home base, which we felt was a great decision.  All the towns have outrageous charm and beauty, but I'd argue Vernazza is the most picturesque, and it cleared out for quiet, lovely evenings despite the hordes of day-trippers that poured in each morning by train.  Eating dinner down by the harbor each night was a delight -- no doubt helped by amazing company ... and the ability to split a bottle of wine without a care in the world about driving home or waking up at any appointed hour the next day!

This was the view from the window of our room, with the morning sky.  I have to pinch myself to remember it was real.

The entire town, stretching out towards the sea.  Vernazza is the only town among the five to have a natural, protected harbor, which you can see on the right.

Looking back on the town and the terraced hill sides behind it.

From the top of Vernazza's castle, looking south along the sea.